January 28, 2012

Haute Hopes

One thing I'm sick and tired of reading are reviews that continue to praise designers no matter what the outcome of their collection. Good or catastrophically bad there is always a lingering tone of sweetness and admiration for that label. And for what, the sake of pleasing them and consolidating their front row invitation to the next show? I want to read something real, honest and sometimes brutal.

After viewing the shows from Paris Couture week F/W 2012-2013 I was notably underwhelmed. I was uninspired. There was nothing new, nothing that shocked me or had me in a hypnotized faze.

In credit to the designers and creative teams behind these 'spectaculars' I have full respect for their craft and the pure time and dedication put in place to create such wondrous shows. I also understand that my opinion has it's limitations and could be completely altered if I were to have seen the collections in the flesh, the way these editors and reviewers do. Experiencing the full ambiance and atmosphere of the collections as well as closely eyeing the details, cuts and colours can be the deciding factor of ones opinion. Therefore I am purely speaking as someone who has ogled over the collections on websites such as style.com and NowFashion eagerly awaiting more footage and HQ detail or backstage images (start blogging or tumblring and you'll know what I mean).

So with this knowledge and respect in mind, I was still left feeling flat, unsatisfied and craving more. It seems the smaller design houses were outshining the renowned ateliers.

Now I wouldn't front this debate without evidence. Case in point, Chanel. Before I go on I do want to stress that I have the up most respect for Karl and other geniuses mentioned, I do, but the creativity or lack there of this season was playing on my mind. I also realize I may be executed for my opinion, which I'm ready to fight and take full responsibility for.

Upon embarking the private jet experience that was Karl's runway show (or metaphorically speaking since this only meant switching on the computer screen and logging onto a live photo stream) I was yet again excited to see what extravaganza the Kaiser had conjured up again. Disappointment was my next unfortunate feeling as the girls started flying out the cabin crew doors (i.e. backstage.)
I felt like I was watching ready to wear! Where was the magic, the collection melted into variations of the shade of blue with troll doll like hair was a step back into the 80's, one I'm sure most would like to forget. It left me feeling as though Karl was trapped in time. The shapes and designs were nothing new, the same extreme drop waists with hidden pockets and open boat neck collars mimicked an androgynous look borrowed from the boys.

Comparisons/similarities from recent Chanel shows: (in comparison to the first image, in blue, from Fall 2012-13 Couture)
(delving into the archives i was overwhelmed with photos that I could use so here is just a small observation of one idea)
(Row 1, Chanel Couture 2012-13, Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 RTW. Row 2, S/S 12, Fall 2011, S/S 12. Row 3, Spring 2011 RTW, Fall 2010, Spring 08 Couture, Spring 2010 RTW)

Even without the incredibly talented Francois Lesage(1929-2011) , the embroidery and attention to detail was still present and alive. I just wish Karl would stick to the label at hand, Chanel, instead of side tracking into collaborations and distractions so that he can purely focus on creating new and exciting ideas for the task at hand. All that energy and multitasking directed into one project could result in a new vision and update for the label without veering to far away from the true Coco legacy.

I'd love to hear your opinions. I'm just stating my opinion, one I feel is often missed or sugar coated with flattery. I'm just wishing for something new next time.

Couture let downs, Decoded: By Kate.

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